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Elizabeth
Connock BSc (Hons), Cosmetic Science & Business 2000, pp. 52-53.
Introduction
The use of natural oils in cosmetics and toiletries is growing
as producers and consumers realise that these materials offer not
only efficacy and skin benefit but also exciting pack copy for their
products.
Traditional natural oils
Mineral oil (Paraffinum liquidum) may easily be replaced in cosmetic
formulae with any of the following vegetable oils: Apricot Kernel
Oil (Prunus armeniaca), Peach Kernel Oil (Prunus persica), Sweet
Almond Oil (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), Safflower Oil (Carthamus tinctorius)
or Coconut Oil (Cocos nucifera). These oils will improve the texture
of cosmetic emulsions both during and after application.
Natural oils with strong added benefits
There are occasions when the formulator wants more than just emolliency
from the oils that are being added and there are numerous options
available. A favourite choice might be Chaulmoogra Oil (Taraktogenos
kurzii) which is used in Ayurvedic tradition for problem skins,
particularly where the skin is desquamative and sore. Another that
is widely used on the Indian continent is Neem Oil (Melia azadirachta),
also known as Nimba, Margosa or Indian Tulip Tree Oil, which is
a traditional treatment for severely damaged skin.
One oil that is fast gaining a good reputation in many skin care
products is a relative newcomer to the industry but is already beginning
to find its way into a number of products. The oil in question is
Seabuckthorn Oil (Hippophae rhamnoides) which has come to us from
the borders of Russia and Mongolia, where the battling Mongols have
discovered through generations of experience that it can be an excellent
remedy for bruised and battered skin!
Nearer to home and a favourite of most herbalists is St. John's
Wort Oil (Hypericum perforatum) which is known across Europe for
its beneficial effects on a wide range of skin problems, particularly
eczema and damaged or bruised skin. The red colour, which is a measure
of the quality of this oil, is from a compound called hypericin.
Another respected European oil is that of Marigold or Calendula
(Calendula officinalis). This too has become popular amongst herbalists
for the treatment of bruises and sore or chapped skin and is also
said to have been used traditionally to treat varicose veins.
There are certain cases where oils that do not appear to have very
much charm turn out to be brimming with skin benefit. One such example
is Carrot Oil (Daucus carota) which, packed with provitamin A and
beta-carotene, can offer protection in skin care products designed
for after-sun application.
Again an oil that might not stimulate immediate interest is Rice
Bran Oil (Oryza sativa) and yet it is a powerful skin protectant,
rich in gamma-oryzanol, which will protect and replenish even the
most jaded of skins.
From the foothills of the Chilean Andes comes an oil that has as
much romantic history as it has skin benefit. Rose Hips Oil or "Rosa
Mosqueta" (Rosa canina) is yellow/orange to red/brown in colour
and it has tremendous power in the treatment of skin blemishes,
especially scar tissue and hyperpigmentation. This oil, which has
been extensively examined in a number of clinical trials carried
out in South America, has shown on numerous occasions that it can
restore skin elasticity and function to the most damaged of tissue.
Wheatgerm Oil (Triticum vulgare) may be perceived as one of our
oldest and most trusted emollient oils and indeed we should not
forget that it has the highest content of vitamin E of any of the
natural oils.
Natural oils with benefit and romance
There could be no oil more synonymous with romance than Passion
Flower Oil (Passiflora edulis) and this is one that will kiss the
skin with a light but effective protective mantle of pure moisture,
whilst having a traditionally soothing and relaxing effect.
Continuing the romantic theme, it is worth sparing a thought for
Gold of Pleasure Oil (Camelina sativa) which was probably introduced
into this country by the ancient Romans who certainly knew how to
pamper themselves with luxurious massage and lingering sessions
at the baths.
Another oil that could be linked with exotic and romantic beauty
is that of Orchid (Vanilla planifolia) which provides a whisper-like
caress to even the most delicate of skin types, leaving it soft,
smooth and ready for love!
In a tropical paradise that is called Tahiti we find a sensuous
preparation that is the purest of Coconut Oil infused with the luxurious
fragrance of Tiare flowers (Gardenia tahitensis) namely Monoi. This
is the closest material to heaven on earth and will excite the senses
close to euphoria.
Natural oils with vitality and strong tradition
Leaving the silky soft, we move into the harsh and inhospitable
world of the South American rainforest. From deep within the jungle
comes the rugged Babassu Oil (Orbignya oleifera), one of nature's
richest emollients, yet effective without being comedogenic. Also
becoming increasingly popular is Brazil Nut Oil (Bertholletia excelsa),
another powerful emollient and protective treatment for dry skin.
Whilst in the mood for adventure and safari, one looks automatically
to the continent of Africa, a land of extremes where both sun and
earth can push a body to its limits. From this land we discover
Marula Oil (Sclerocarya birrea) which is much prized and treasured
by the local people for its powerful protective and healing effect
on the skin.
To the north is found Watermelon Seed Oil (Citrullus vulgaris),
also known as Ootanga Oil. The seeds themselves are eaten for their
high nutritional value and nutty flavour while the oil they contain
is a rich emollient that can restore moisture and protection to
dry, damaged skin.
It is here that we also find many of the emollient and skin substantive
butters such as Shorea Butter (Shorea robusta), Shea Butter (Butyrospermum
parkii) and Cocoa Butter (Theobroma cacao). These provide heavyweight
action from a light emollient, spreadability and good skin penetration.
Continuing our journey to the exotic Pacific islands of Hawaii,
we discover the oil derived from the "King of Nuts" namely
Macadamia Nut Oil (Macadamia ternifolia), a triglyceride oil containing
around eighty per cent of monounsaturate fatty acids. The Macadamia
tree, originally native to Australia, has been a traditional source
of skin-softening emollience. As it is safe enough to eat it is
ideally suited to lip balms and other products applied to the oral
mucosa.
Natural oils with GLA (gamma linolenic acid)
The use of oils containing GLA has become popular in most skin
care products. The first of these oils was probably Evening Primrose
Oil (Oenothera biennis) but this was soon joined by Borage or Starflower
Oil (Borago officinalis). In addition the delicate oil from Blackcurrant
Seeds (Ribes nigrum) also provides a high level of beneficial GLA.
Something novel
Occasionally in our search for new ingredients we come across a
material that is really special and one such example is Artemisia
Oil (Artemisia sphaerocephala) from the Far East. This oil comes
from a family that includes Mugwort, Chinese Wormwood, Davana and
Absinthe. The Artemisia family shares the common feature of being
beneficial to the skin, especially to keep it clear of infection
and improve wound healing. Often these oils are quite coarse and
unsophisticated in their fragrance but this species exudes a delightful
aroma which would be a perfect complement to a 'natural' product.
Conclusions
The natural world is a great provider of emollients and a formulator
prepared to explore and experiment can find many a solution to the
challenges laid down by his marketing colleagues to come up with
ideas that are innovative and appealing to the consumer.
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